Food for all tastes
The traditional eating establishments are called Estaminets. There are quite a few. And a must for any visitor to Lille. I’ve created a separate page for the Estaminets. Plenty of other restaurants, lots of more ethnic ones in the Wazemmes district. A friend owns a very fine Indian establishment – L’été indien.
Traditional Dishes and Local Specialties
Local dishes include moules-frites (mussels and chips), Le Welsch, a heart-attack of cheese, beer, ham and bread, Carbonade Flamande, a rich beef beer stew with chips. The local cheese is Maroilles; very pungent. Many of the bars do meat/cheese platters (Planches) which are often huge (with bread of course) and very good for about 15€. Good for two people. Chips (frites) are everywhere. The boulangerie in Gare Lille-Flandres, Erik Kayser, is good if pricey.
Best Patisserie and Bakeries in Lille
Best patisserie/cake place is the world-famous Méert in the old town. All the usual fast-food suspects are present. Very, very good ‘proper’ burgers at L’Adresse, 34 Bis Rue des Boucher. The highly rated Paris-founded French Bastards (!) bakery/coffee shop chain now has two outposts in Lille: 33 Rue Neuve and Rue Basse.
Estaminet Au Vieux De La Vielle
Great croques and fantastic frites everywhere!
L’été Indien for great Indian food
Many of the bars are also brasseries…
La Bellezza – ever popular Italian
Unmissable Méert for pastries, chocolate, cakes…
Elizabeths Tea Rooms
La Fossetta Italian
Recommended restaurants
Recommended restaurants
La Bellezza, Rue Esquermoise, is an excellent Italian restaurant. Always big queues.
There are quite a few sushi places, deeply average in my experience. Some weird ‘fusion’ joints – Coté Sushi – a Peruvian/Japanese experiment: no me neither. Lots of couscous (France’s adopted cuisine; like curry for us) restaurants, particularly in the Wazemmes area.
There’s an English tearoom in the old town, Elizabeth’s on rue Basse. Good in my experience; quite small. But, as mentioned previously, for the full-on tearoom/cake experience Méert is stunning!
Brasserie Andre is an atmospheric and popular longstanding Brasserie on Rue de Béthune, close to Place de la République.
There are about five Italian restaurants on Rue des Molfonds.
People queue endlessly for meringue-based local specialities from Les Merveilleux de Fred, Rue de la Monnaie. The Merveilleux consists of meringue, chocolate, whipped cream, coated with shavings of dark chocolate. [There’s one at Lille-Flandres too and they have recently opened an outpost at St Pancras in London]. See my Lille Top Ten page.
Waffles are quite a big thing here too. Covered in whipped cream!
For cheap food, most patisseries/boulangeries do very good, large sandwiches (€4-5ish), or they will make them for you. The chain Paul, which is in the UK, was founded in Lille. Perfectly acceptable, but not the best.
In the better food supermarkets you can find perfectly acceptable ready meals/salads, etc.
Michelin-Rated Restaurants in Lille
If you’re in the mood for fine dining, there are a few Michelin-rated restaurants in the centre.
Riverboat restaurants near the start/finish area
Brasserie Andre
Rue du Gand – a road of restaurants!
Open for over 100 years, Alcide ‘Bouillon’ dining spot is a must visit
Kitchen Market Scene food hall
Lots and lots of restaurants on Rue du Gand in the old town.
Most bars are really brasseries, so do food. Simplistically you won’t be disappointed. The French are obsessed by food, so apart from the fast-food joints and ubiquitous kebab shops, places don’t survive if the food isn’t good or is overpriced.
Street Food, Frites and Casual Dining
Chips are a big deal here! You’ll find the various Friterie Meuniers (one in Grand’Place another close to Lille-Flandres, one by Au Paon D’Or) are utterly reliable for huge portion of frites and stuff!
Food Halls and Markets in Lille
If you all want to eat different things (!) then there are two food halls: Kitchen Market Lille (rue des Tanneurs) and Grand Scéne (rue de Béthune).
Legendary Dining Spots
The Alcide ‘Bouillon’ restaurant has been serving workers classic French food for almost 150 years. Great value and atmosphere; rather like Chartier in Paris.
Breakfast and Brunch Options
Breakfast, apart from the ever-present croissant, is not such a thing. The only place I’ve found for a decent brunch-type offering is the Australian Paddo Café, by the cathedral on rue du Cirque. Busy and no reservations. Excellent food and service. Soho Urban Food (rue Léon Trulin) is highly rated for a big buffet-type meal; I’ve not been. I find the Indian restaurants in France pretty bland by English standards, with the exception of my mates Harsh’s and chef Nabi’s aforementioned L’été indien!
Rue de Gand
On Rue de Gand you will find about a dozen estaminets! The road is entirely restaurants, running to the Porte de Gand (Ghent Gate), where you can see the old city walls. Inside the historic Porte (pictured) there is even a restaurant, a Greek establishment called Yaya. I’ve mentioned some of the estaminets on a separate page. They all offer quality, hearty local dishes in a vibrant atmosphere.
Carbonard Flamande – a rich beef/beer stew
Snacks and Fast Food Options
All the usual suspects are present and correct in force… sadly!
Practice at Home
If you want to prepare your tastebuds in advance, I’d suggest you have a go at a nice Carbonard Flamande. Serve it with a pile of chips, washed down with a pint of strong Flemish beer, for authenticity!
This BBC Good Food recipe is actually pretty good…
DISCOVER LILLE
Lille, the vibrant capital of Flanders, is known for its stunning architecture, rich history, and welcoming atmosphere. Explore the charming old town, indulge in delicious French cuisine, and experience a unique mix of French and Flemish cultures.
Culture and History
Bars and Cafes
Dining
Shopping
Vieux Lille
Get in touch, I'll be happy to help
STAY IN THE LOOP
Where to stay for the Lille Braderie : hotels, neighbourhoods and smart alternatives
The Braderie de Lille pulls in more than 2 million visitors over one weekend, and the best hotels for the Lille Braderie sell out months ahead. Booking late usually means paying double or triple, or ending up far from the action. This guide covers when to book, which...
Street food in Lille: how a lifelong Lilloise found her city again
Lille has quietly become one of northern France's finest cities for street food, and it did not happen overnight. From food courts built inside old textile mills to a market stall that has fed three generations of one family, the scene stretches from Wazemmes to...
Free visits in Lille : a local’s guide to the city’s best free spots
Lille is one of the easiest cities in Europe to fall for without spending a euro. Cobbled lanes, a working cathedral, free museums on Sunday mornings and a market that never stops all sit within a short walk of each other. This guide gathers the best free visits in...
Our 10 tips for experiencing the Braderie de Lille like a true Ch’ti
Every first weekend of September, Lille turns into Europe's biggest flea market. Between bargain hunters, mussels and chips, and pedestrian streets as far as the eye can see, the Braderie de Lille takes a little preparation to enjoy properly. Here, seen through the...
How to get to Lille from the UK
Reaching Lille from the UK takes as little as 1h22 by direct Eurostar, though coaches, rideshare and driving through the Channel Tunnel all offer real alternatives. Choosing the right route matters as much as the destination, since prices, luggage rules and local...
The best terraces in Lille
The best terraces in Lille Lille does sunshine properly. The moment the clouds part, tables spill out across the old town, the Citadelle park fills up, and every rooftop in the centre seems to grow a queue. After years of living just outside the city, I have my own...
The Lille Braderie, exactly as I live it: the atmosphere, the chine and getting here from London
Once a year, my city turns into the largest flea market in Europe, and for two days you'll hear singing from an open window, smell mussels on every terrace, and lose all sense of time in a crowd that somehow never feels like a crowd. This guide starts where the...
Duty free shop Calais : the complete guide to getting the best deals on wine
The duty free shop at Calais port is well-known to every British traveller who crosses the Channel. But for wine buyers, it is rarely the most rewarding stop. Calais Vins and Olivier Vins combine direct sourcing from French producers, a formal VAT reclaim service and...
Why visit Lille : the honest insider’s guide for British visitors
Lille sits 80 minutes from London by Eurostar, yet most British visitors still fly straight past it. That is a mistake. The capital of Flanders combines world-class museums, a thriving estaminet food scene, some of the strongest beer in northern Europe and enough WW1...
Moving to Lille: What You Really Need to Know Before You Arrive
Lille is the kind of city that surprises people. They expect a grey northern industrial town and find, instead, cobbled squares, a roaring food scene, and a train that puts Brussels 35 minutes away and Paris in under an hour. What they don't expect is how fast the...














