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The Braderie in Lille

Once a year, on the first weekend of September, Lille turns into the biggest flea market in Europe and I turn into a man carrying a lamp he did not need. The Braderie is glorious chaos: miles of stalls, mountains of mussel shells and two million people elbowing for a bargain. Delphine has done it since she was a child, so I have let her write the rules here: what to buy, where to sleep, and how to survive it like a true Ch’ti.