ESTAMINETS OF LILLE
Discover Our StoriesTraditional Estaminets
A Warm Welcome to Flanders on a Plate
Looking for the soul of Lille? Forget your guidebook and follow the scent of melted cheese, sizzling sausage, and frothy local beer—it’ll lead you straight to one of the city’s most cherished traditions: the estaminet. These cosy, rustic restaurants are where Flemish flavours meet French flair, and they’re the place to tuck into hearty dishes, warm up after a windy day, and fall just a little bit in love with northern France.
So, whether you’re a foodie, a history buff, or just hungry and cold (we’ve all been there), here’s your ultimate guide to the estaminets of Lille—where to go, what to eat, and why you’ll leave feeling like family.
What Exactly Is an Estaminet?
First things first—let’s decode the word. “Estaminet” (pronounced es-ta-mee-neh) is a charmingly old-school term that once referred to Flemish cafés and taverns. Back in the day, these were simple, no-fuss places for farmers and townsfolk to meet, drink, and play cards. Fast forward a few centuries, and the estaminet has evolved into something a bit more refined—but no less authentic.
In Lille today, estaminets are part restaurant, part time machine. Think wooden beams, mismatched chairs, vintage clocks, lace curtains, and copper pots on the walls. It’s like dining in your grandma’s kitchen—if your grandma cooked with Maroilles cheese and brewed her own beer.
Estaminet Ch’tite Brigitte
La Vieille France
Nautical-themed Chez Raoul
l’Estaminet La Vieille France
What’s on the Menu?
Let’s be honest: you’re not here for a kale salad. Estaminets specialise in comfort food—regional, robust, and unapologetically rich. Here are some must-try dishes that appear on nearly every estaminet menu in Lille:
🍴 Welsh (Welsh Rarebit): Not to be confused with the British version, Lille’s Welsh is a bubbling dish of beer-soaked bread smothered in melted cheddar (or often mimolette) and ham, topped with a fried egg. Served in its own little dish and usually with fries on the side. Warning: it’s a cheese-lover’s dream—and a nap waiting to happen.
🍖 Carbonnade Flamande: Northern France’s answer to beef bourguignon. This slow-cooked beef stew (pictured) is simmered in dark beer (like a good Ch’ti brew), with onions and a touch of gingerbread for sweetness. It’s savoury, sticky, and spoon-soft. Again, usually paired with frites.
🧀 Tarte au Maroilles: This pie is all about the cheese. Maroilles is famously strong-smelling, but don’t be scared—it mellows beautifully when baked into a creamy, crispy tart. A great veggie option, though probably not first-date material.
🐖 Potjevleesch: (Pronounced potch-vlesh) A chilled terrine of pork, rabbit, and chicken set in vinegar jelly. Served cold with fries, it’s a texture thing—and surprisingly refreshing in warmer months.
🍮 Gaufres Fourrées: These aren’t your average waffles. Stuffed with vanilla or chicory cream, they’re a local sweet treat often served as dessert or with coffee.
And of course, don’t miss out on regional beers like Ch’ti Blonde, 3 Monts, or Bellerose, and maybe a shot of génépi or jenever (juniper spirit) to finish things off.
Where to Find the Best Estaminets in Lille
Now, the important bit: where should you go to experience this Flemish feast? Here are some of the most beloved estaminets in the centre of Lille:
Estaminet ‘T Rijsel
📍 25 Rue de Gand
If you only have time for one, ‘T Rijsel [Flemish for Lille] is a strong contender to head for. It’s everything you want in an estaminet—brick walls, local beers, carbonnade that falls apart on your fork, and a dessert menu you won’t be able to resist. ‘T Rijsel is actually the Flemish name for Lille, so you know they’re serious.
La Vieille France
📍 1 Place Louise de Bettignies
Located in the heart of Old Lille, this estaminet delivers classic dishes with a side of beautiful views. Bonus: they’ve got outdoor seating for warmer months, and blankets for chillier days. Très cosy.
Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille
📍 2 Rue des Vieux Murs
Hidden in a little square behind Notre-Dame de la Treille Cathedral, this place feels like a secret. Candles on the tables, lace on the windows, and the best tarte au Maroilles you’ll find anywhere. A favourite spot for me!
Le Barbue d’Anvers
📍 1 Rue Saint-Etienne
A little more upscale, but still delightfully rustic. Set in a 16th-century house with exposed wood beams and stone walls. Great for a romantic evening or a special occasion.
La Pâte Brisée
📍 10 Rue du Pont Neuf
A modern take on the estaminet spirit. Think: lighter versions of classic dishes, vegetarian options, and a wine list that rivals the beer menu. A good pick if you’re craving the vibe without the potential food coma.
Estaminet ‘T Rijsel
L’Estaminet du Welsch
L’Estaminet Gantois
L’Estaminet de l’Andouiller
Ch’tite Brigitte
L’Estaminet Gantois
📍 224 Rue Pierre Mauroy (inside Hôtel L’Hermitage Gantois)
Fancy a little refinement with your carbonnade? Tucked inside the majestic Hôtel L’Hermitage Gantois, this estaminet offers old-world elegance with a rustic twist. The building dates back to the 15th century, and the vaulted ceilings and soft lighting make for a magical setting. The food? Flawless. Try the pavé de rumsteck sauce maroilles with a glass of red and thank us later.
Le Broc
📍 5 Place de Béthune & 8 Rue Saint-Jacques (Vieux Lille)
If there’s one estaminet that worships cheese like a religion, it’s Le Broc. Specialising in all things melted, this place serves Welsh, raclette, fondue, tartiflette—you name it. It’s rustic, hearty, and guaranteed to cure any winter blues. The vibe is young, lively, and casual, and the wine list gives the beer a run for its money.
Chez la Vieille
📍 60 Rue de Gand
A Rue de Gand staple and a local favourite, Chez la Vieille combines nostalgia, comfort, and great food in one little wooden-beamed package. It’s got the cosy, cluttered look down to an art—lace curtains, enamel signs, old clocks—and the food sticks to its Flemish roots. Grab the chicons au gratin and don’t skip dessert (the gaufre fourrée is pure joy).
Estaminet La Cour de la Ch’tite Brigitte
📍 61 rue de la Monnaie
Historic barely covers it! This exceptional place combines the craftsmanship of Flanders with the true Ch’Ti tradition. You will discover a place steeped in history, a witness to an era even before Lille became part of France in 1667. It was here that King Louis XIV made this house the Hôtel de la Monnaie, where gold coins bearing his likeness, the famous ‘Louis d’Or’, were minted.
Chez Raoul
📍 56 Rue de Gand
At Raoul’s. Here, the whole atmosphere is a tribute to Raoul de Godewarsveld, an icon of the North. You’ll eat delicious, typical Northern dishes in a land-and-sea tavern featuring products from the Opal Coast. You’ll find regional specialties like the famous moules frites, carbonnade, Welsh, poulet au maroilles, and delicious chicory. Desserts are also very indulgent: French toast, homemade ch’tiramisu, chicory crème brûlée, salted caramel chocolate mousse, and other delights.
Ch’tite Brigitte
📍 10 Rue des Bouchers
Small in size but mighty in flavour, Ch’tite Brigitte is one of Vieux Lille’s most beloved hidden gems. This place oozes personality—colourful tablecloths, cheeky chalkboard menus, and staff that treat you like family. The food is deeply traditional (don’t miss the Welsh or the fricadelle) and full of humour, just like the place itself. It’s lively, it’s local, and it fills up fast—get there early or book ahead.
l’Estaminet du Welsch
📍 45 rue de Gand
Another rue de Gand favourite. On the menu, you’ll find iconic Northern dishes such as Carbonnade Flamande, Welsh, Blanquette de Veau, Pot au Feu, and many more. Back to the future. The tableware, carefully selected decor, and period music immerse you in the warm atmosphere of early 20th-century Northern taverns.
Atmosphere: Cosy, Quirky, and Incredibly French
If there’s one word that sums up the estaminet experience, it’s convivial. These are not places for hushed conversation or checking your emails. Estaminets are about loud laughter, clinking glasses, and lingering over that last bite of dessert because you just don’t want to leave.
La Pâte Brisée
Le Barbue d’Anvers
Many are decorated with local curios—old beer signs, antique radios, wall clocks stuck at 7:12 forever—and little games like jeu de palets (a kind of tabletop shuffleboard). The waitstaff are usually up for a chat, happy to recommend a beer or explain what potjevleesch actually is (bless them). You’ll often see big groups of locals—families, friends, students—tucking into shared plates and talking over each other. It’s that kind of place.
Most of the Estaminets have outdoor seating, perfect for people watching over a rich Carbonard Flamande and glass of Flemish beer!
If you only have one meal in Lille, make sure it’s at an estaminet. You won’t regret it. But remember to book! They are going to get busy around Tour de France time!